Stephan Steinmetz

We can affirm Steinmetz’s deep roots in the Obermosel, and we can attest to his idiosyncratic brand of charm—but it would seem that AI internet translators are prone to whiffing on the word dickkopf.  Which actually means something closer to “thick-head”—that is to say, headstrong and uncompromising.  And that description most certainly does fit Steinmetz, who may be the most stubborn idealist in this undersung region.

Just across the river from Luxembourg and a few clicks east of France, this southern slice of Germany’s Mosel Valley is quite distinct from the slate-dominated Riesling slopes that lie downstream. Steinmetz’s six-hectare family estate is part of the Paris Basin’s foothills, whose muschelkalk soils are loaded with shell limestone—the same geology that distinguishes Chablis and Sancerre. And since 1992, when he took the reins as a 23-year-old, Stephan has become a master at channeling this terroir into electric, mineral-rich expressions of three Pinot varietals (Blanc, Gris, and Noir) along with two lesser-known grapes, Auxerrois (a sibling of Chardonnay) and the still-more-obscure Elbling, of which he is renowned as a passionate champion.

And that’s the place to start: What is Elbling, anyway, and why would it need a champion?  The answer turns out to be a little unexpected.  Elbling was one of the most dominant grapes in Germany in medieval times—and may even have been the varietal dubbed Vitus alba by Pliny the Elder in the first century AD.  It covered German vineyards all the way into the early 20^th century, but has been in deep decline ever since. A census in 2006 identified fewer than 600 hectares remaining in Germany, virtually all of which were in Mosel. Suffice it to say that the Parker Era was not kind to a grape synonymous with low sugar content and puckering acidity. But as far as Stephan Steinmetz is concerned, Elbling is “the voice” of the Upper Mosel. And thanks to his temperamental opposition to chasing trends, Stephan now finds himself perfectly (and paradoxically!) positioned to catch a wave of newfound appreciation for bracingly fresh, bone dry, clean-as-a-whistle wines that lead with minerality rather than alcoholic heft. Both his still and sparkling cuvées hit the mark. The former is brisk and incisive, opening like tart apples sliced with a fearsome shard of frozen stone, and reverberating with chalk-filled acidity all the way through in a bottling that clocks in at just 10% ABV. The Crémant Blanc, a no-dosage brut, sings a high-pitched medley of peach flesh, citrus rind, and enticing yeast notes electrified by Elbling’s signature racy tang.

Yet Stephan is equally at home working with Burgundian varietals, to which he brings the same philosophy of minimal intervention in both the vineyard and the cellar, where stainless-steel vinification and ample time laying on the lees fosters refinement and complexity. His Weisserburgunder (as Pinot Blanc is locally known) is rounder and denser than that Elbling, yet also full of bounce and vivacity—a multifaceted wine whose linearity belies a sneaky sort of depth. The Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) pairs intense orchard aromatics with a full-bodied muscularity that’s surprising given its low alcohol content. The Auxerrois, naturally less acidic than the others, is a study in ripe yellow fruits and stimulating juiciness offset by a delicate pepperiness that wafts above.  Finally, his Liaison Crémant marries fruit-forward Pinot Blanc with white-pressed, creamy Pinot Noir in a classic alliance that fills the palate with honeyed orchard flavors and sapid minerality. And like everything else Stephan bottles, it’s sealed under natural cork, which he believes is essential for harmonious aging.

Nearly 35 years into his quest to express the soul of the Upper Mosel Valley, Stephan Steinmetz is more adamant than ever that time-honored varietals and traditional methods are the only way forward. Today the winery is a true family affair, with his wife Petra and their children fully involved. Even in a subregion known for multigenerational winemaking legacies, this one represents a uniquely compelling combination of graceful continuity and stubborn idealism. In a word, Stephan Steinmetz is our kind of thick-head.