Robert Ampeau et Fils
Appellation: Côte de Beaune, Burgundy
Proprietor: Michel Ampeau
Year Established: Early-1900s
Size : 9.5 hectares
The Quiet Murisaltien
Robert Ampeau left us a time-capsule treasure trove, and an inimitable legacy in Burgundy.
It was the summer of 1982 when I first rang the bell outside of #6 Rue de Cromin in Meursault. I’d come seeking an audience with the elusive Robert Ampeau, whose wines had caught the fancy of Pierre Paillardon at Gerard Vie’s Les Trois Marches in Versailles. Pierre, freshly honored as the Best Young Sommelier in France, had set up the appointment. Without it, I can’t imagine having gotten so much as a toe past the gate.
Robert came shuffling out in a blue work suit that (as I would come to learn) he wore seven days a week. Despite the somm’s intro, he greeted me with more than a little bit of suspicion—even a hint of annoyance. He led me toward the front door of his house and then down 26 steps to the cellar.
It was about 85 degrees outside, but absolutely frigid underground. Holding a basket with four INAO glasses, Robert handed me a sheet of paper. It contained a grid whose y-axis listed the names of Ampeau’s holdings. In white: Meursault, Meursault La Pièce Sous Le Bois, Meursault-Perrières, Meursault-Charmes, Puligny Combettes. In red: Pommard (a small lieu-dit that abuts Rugiens), Volnay-Santenots, Blagny La Pièce Sous Le Bois, Beaune Clos du Roi, Auxey-Duresses Ecusseaux, Savigny Villages, and Savigny Lavières. The x-axis indicated the vintages he was then offering for sale: from 1964 to 1976.
Robert folded his arms across his chest and clutched his elbows. “Alors Jim,” he said, “Qu’est-ce que vous voulez goûter?”
Beyond a basic understanding of each vintage’s broad reputation, I really didn’t know enough to make intelligent choices, so I picked six reds and six whites somewhat randomly and returned the slip of paper. Robert repeated my selections as he jotted them down using some sort of four- and five-character code system. Then he strode out of the cellar, shut the door behind him, and utterly vanished—leaving me in a 54-degree cellar in a pair of shorts, a T-shirt and a light cotton sweater.
I waited 10 minutes, jumping up and down to stay warm. This vault was stuffed with wines. Where had their maker gone? Another 20 minutes passed as I shivered in the dead quiet, my thin cotton sleeves gone clammy. Bewilderment edged toward paranoia as still more sand slipped through the hourglass. My mind wandered into Hitchcock territory. Was my half-frozen body the only one down here? Finally, after a full 45 minutes, the door creaked open and swung shut again, as a softly panting Robert reappeared carrying two milk crates each containing six bottles.
White chalk marks ran vertically up and down the bottles in an abbreviated cru-vintage format (MP76, MLP69, PC72). I was relieved, not only because I wouldn’t be imprisoned in this Meursault cellar after all, but because Robert now seemed less annoyed than amused by my presence—as if he’d half-expected me to bolt for daylight and was tickled to find me reaching for a glass instead.
The wines were everything Pierre had built them up to be—but it would take nearly two decades for me to discover why Robert had kept me shivering so long to taste them. The revelation came after I’d visited about a dozen times, when I asked him to let me taste all of the 1983s and for the first time was told I couldn’t. His son Michel, to whom I’d grown close after all of those years, laughed and explained why:
The cellar beneath the house, packed to the gills, was just one of six belonging to the Ampeaus in and around the village of Meursault. Each one held about 15 years’ worth of one or two appellations, neatly stacked in wooden and metal bins, marked with coded chalk. The reason I couldn’t taste the ’83s was because they’d crammed that entire vintage into a single cellar—jamming it so full that every appellation was barricaded behind the Auxey-Duresses Ecusseaux, which happened to be the last one they’d squeezed in next to the door.
And then it clicked. After a visitor filled out his tasting grid, Robert would mount his ancient bicycle and pedal all over Meursault, performing a gymnastics routine in each of the cellars to pluck out the desired bottles. And a single routing mistake could send him sweating through the whole circuit a second time. No wonder I’d been left dancing a jig in that cold cellar in 1982—and Robert came back half out of breath!
In the village, the Ampeaus were famous for their work ethic. In my countless visits I only ever encountered a single full-time employee, who had a working-class passion for the physical, philosophical and analytical sides of le metier. The family members worked seven days per week. Sunday morning was for Church, and then they were back on the tractor in the afternoon.
The model Robert drove epitomized the stubborn devotion he had to his vines above all else. He’d pointedly refused to adopt the high-efficiency Bobard machine that seduced many vignerons in the 1950s with its ability to trim and treat in a single pass. The tight spacing in the Côte de Beaune, where sharp turns risked toppling the new tractor over, had necessitated a low-clearance design that required shrinking the leaf canopies, inhibiting photosynthesis and ripening.
That’s why, when I first went to Burgundy in the late 1970s, the vines were consistently trimmed thigh-high—with a few notable exceptions. The reduced leaf canopies confronted growers who used the low-slung Bobards with a thorny choice: leave the grapes hanging later in the growing season, amplifying the risk of an autumn calamity; or chaptalize more aggressively. Robert preferred to work twice as hard with his older high-clearance machine—and when you walked through Perrières or Combettes in the ’80s and ’90s, you could see the Ampeau vines towering over their neighbors. I suspect the decision to steer clear of the new tractor had much to do with the incredible vitality and longevity of Ampeau’s reds and whites, and the vines that produce them.
Sadly, Robert passed away in 2004. Though he’d grown thin as a rail battling a string of illnesses, he spent his final morning on Earth piloting his tractor through the vineyards in his habitual blue work suit. As Jean-Pierre Diconne, a family friend and producer in Auxey-Duresses, told me, “C’était une belle mort”—it was a beautiful death.
He left an incalculable legacy. One measure is the sheer range of Ampeau’s current library. Not only did Robert typically wait a lot longer to release vintages than his peers, Michel has also held onto select lots going back to the early 1990s and even 1976 Volnay-Santenots. Those six frigid cellars contain a staggering trove of Premier Cru and village wines from one of the most priceless estates in the Côte de Beaune.
Robert also kept carefully annotated notebooks recording details of each growing season and harvest. One day he said something I never forgot: “On ne vendange jamais assez tot en Bourgogne” (“We can’t harvest early enough in Burgundy”). Though climate change has made this a more common refrain in this century, I never heard it said by another Burgundian grower of the time. But when you taste through dozens of vintages—Volnay-Santenots, Pommard, Puligny Combettes, Perrières and La Pièce Sous Le Bois—Robert’s words ring true. As of today, the Meursault-Perrières from the middling 1997 vintage is beautiful, still lively, and showing no sign of its quarter-century of bottle age. The 1999 reds are still berried up, bright, rich, and restrained. Perhaps the most remarkable aspect of Ampeau’s stylistic continuity is the knack Robert had for coaxing silver linings from subpar vintages. In 2000 I tasted several bottles of 1972 Puligny Combettes—a year widely regarded as the worst in four decades—but Ampeau’s was fresh, steely and saline, a Burgundian study in oyster shells and bitter honey.
Yet there are still precious few visitors at #6 Rue de Cromin. With the exception of Clive Coates—whom I first met at Ampeau in the 1990s and who I believe visited fairly regularly—to my knowledge no other critic of high repute has ever conducted an exhaustive tasting of Ampeau Burgundy. Why? Behind a manner that some found prickly Robert was a wonderful guy, but an exceptionally quiet one who had no time for small talk—and even less for sales and marketing. (Sometimes I thought he was almost trying not to sell wine, as it took him away from the vines.)
Another truth, however, is that it’s been a tragically long while since this gem of Burgundy has been able to welcome strangers into its caves. In 2014 Michel suffered a stroke. With just one employee and facing a long rehab, he stopped marketing altogether. For nearly five years, not a single bottle was labeled or shipped. Finally, in late 2017, Michel called me to say he was ready to begin shipping again—but we needed to understand that turnaround time would be very slow.
The first lot arrived in mid-2018. Since then, we’ve received Robert’s 1996s from Volnay-Santenots and Meursault-Perrières, 1992 Meursault and Meursault-Perrières, 1999 Pommard, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières, and Volnay-Santenots, and a 2001 Volnay-Santenots. These age-burnished rarities are indelible evocations of the Côte de Beaune—all still fresh, bright and complex, like sparks of a singular life locked in suspended animation.
Wines:
Varietal/Blend: Chardonnay
Vineyard Area: Ampeau's village Meursault comes from two lieux-dits, Sous la velle and Les Crotots. Sous la Velle is situated just outside the village on the southern side; Les Crotos, a short walk from Sous la Velle, is posited just below Porusot.
Soil: A mix of clay and limestone, with some vineyards having a greater proportion of marl.
Elevation: 230 meters
Exposure: Southeast
Vinification: Pneumatically pressed with fermentation and malolactic fermentation in oaks barrels, of which 10-25% are new.
Maturation: About 10 months with regular bâtonnage
Varietal/Blend: Chardonnay
Vineyard Area: La Pièce Sous le Bois was the last vineyard acquired by Domaine Robert Ampeau (1973). It's the largest of the estate's parcel totaling 1.6 hectares and today is planted entirely to Chardonnay. La Pièce is among the steepest and highest elevations vineyards in Meursault (just below the forest at the very top of the hill) and very close to the border of Puligny-Montrachet.
Soil: The soils consist of clay and stony limestone over a hard bedrock of limestone which is fundamentally very similar to the First Growth vineyards in the middle of the hill. The main difference is that, at the top of the hill, topsoils are finer and faster draining, which creates a more stressful environment resulting in racier and lighter qualities in the wines.
Elevation: 350 meters
Exposure: Southeast
Vinification: Pneumatically pressed with fermentation and malolactic fermentation in oak barrels, of which 10-25% are new.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces with regular bâtonnage
Marketing Materials:
Varietal/Blend: Chardonnay
Vineyard Area: Michel Ampeau's grandfather acquired the estate's plot in Charmes Les Dessus in the early-1900s. The vineyard is situated on the southern end of the village on the lower portion of the hillside where the slope is gentler.
Soil: Layers of clay and fractured limestone covered in calcareous gravel
Elevation: 260 meters
Exposure: East
Vinification: Pneumatically pressed with fermentation and malolactic in barrel, of which 10-25% are new.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces with regular bâtonnage
Marketing Materials:
Varietal/Blend: Chardonnay
Vineyard Area: Michel Ampeau's grandfather acquired 1 hectare in Meursault-Perrières in the early-1900s. The estate's parcel lies in Perrières-Dessous which is the lower section.
Soil: Thin, chalky and stony limestone
Elevation: 240 meters
Exposure: East
Vinification: Pneumatically pressed with fermentation and malolactic in barrels, of which 10-25% are new.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces with regular bâtonnage
Marketing Materials:
Varietal/Blend: Chardonnay
Vineyard Area: The estate's parcel in Les Combettes was acquired in the 1950s by Michel Ampeau's father, Robert. It's a gently sloped site at the northern limit of Puligny-Montrachet bordering Meursault.
Soil: Fine marl with clay
Elevation: 250 meters
Exposure: Southeast
Vinification: Pneumatically pressed with fermentation and malolactic in barrels, of which 10-25% are new.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces with regular bâtonnage
Varietal/Blend: Pinot Noir
Vineyard Area: Les Ecusseaux are situated on the eastern edge of Auxey-Duresses at the bottom of a hillside in a very gently sloped section bordering Monthelie. The parcel was acquired in the 1950s by Robert Ampeau.
Soil: Clay-limestone with thin top soils and a rocky, iron-rich subsoil.
Elevation: 200 meters
Exposure: Southeast
Vinification: Grapes are mostly de-stemmed and fermented in cement tank with native yeast. Following fermentation, the wine is transferred to barrel for malolactic fermentation and aging.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces (10-25% new barrels)
Marketing Materials:
Varietal/Blend: Pinot Noir
Vineyard Area: Clos du Roi is situated on the northern end of the appellation bordering Savigny-lès-Beaune. The vines, from Michel Ampeau's mother's side, came to the estate in the 1940s after the marriage of his parents.
Soil: Thin and sandy topsoils covered in rocks over clay-limestone
Elevation: 300 meters
Exposure: South-southeast
Vinification: Grapes are mostly de-stemmed and fermented in cement tank with native yeast. Following fermentation, the wine is transferred to barrel for malolactic fermentation and aging.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces (10-25% new barrels)
Marketing Materials:
Varietal/Blend: Pinot Noir
Vineyard Area: Ampeau's Pinot Noir vines in La Pièce—acquired in 1973 by Robert Ampeau— were then classified as Blagny 1er Cru. They've been since replanted to Chardonnay and thereby reclassified as Meursault 1er Cru. La Pièce is among the steepest and highest elevation vineyards in Meursault. It's just below the forest at the very top of the hill, very close to Puligny-Montrachet.
Soil: The soils consist of clay and stony limestone over a hard bedrock of limestone which is fundamentally very similar to the First Growths in the middle of the hill. The main difference is that, at the top of the hill, topsoils are finer and faster draining, which creates a more stressful environment which lends a lighter and racier character in the wines.
Elevation: 350 meters
Exposure: Southeast
Vinification: Grapes are mostly de-stemmed and fermented in cement tank with native yeast. Following fermentation, the wine is transferred to barrel for malolactic fermentation and aging.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces (10-25% new barrels)
Varietal/Blend: Pinot Noir
Vineyard Area: Ampeau's village Pommard come from a lieu-dit called Les Vaumuriens, although not indicated on the label. The vineyard is just above 1er cru Les Rugiens. The parcel was acquired in the 1950s by Robert Ampeau.
Soil: Brown, clay-limestone and white marl topsoils over hard limestone
Elevation: 360 meters
Exposure: North-northeast
Vinification: Grapes are mostly de-stemmed and fermented in cement tank with native yeast. Following fermentation, the wine is transferred to barrel for malolactic fermentation and aging.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces (10-25% new barrels)
Marketing Materials:
Varietal/Blend: Pinot Noir
Vineyard Area: Ampeau's Savigny-les-Beaune is drawn from a single plot in Aux Fourneaux on the lower section in village designation. The vines cam from Michel's mother's side in the 1940s after the marriage of his parents.
Soil: Deep clay-limestone
Elevation: 240 meters
Exposure: East
Vinification: Grapes are mostly de-stemmed and fermented in cement tank with native yeast. Following fermentation, the wine is transferred to barrel for malolactic fermentation and aging.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces (10-25% new barrels)
Varietal/Blend: Pinot Noir
Vineyard Area: Les Lavières is situated to the east of the village of Savigny-lès-Beaune in the middle of the hillside. The vines, from Michel's mother's side, came to the estate in the 1940s after the marriage of his parents.
Soil: Shallow and fine alluvial topsoils (clay, sand and silt mixtures) over hard stratified layers of flat limestone rocks.
Elevation: 260 meters
Exposure: South
Vinification: Grapes are mostly de-stemmed and fermented in cement tank with native yeast. Following fermentation, the wine is transferred to barrel for malolactic fermentation and aging.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces (10-25% new barrels)
Marketing Materials:
Varietal/Blend: Pinot Noir
Vineyard Area: Volnay-Santenots is among the appellation's southernmost sites and closest to Meursault. It's situated on the mid-slope section of the hillside. Michel Ampeau's grandfather acquired the first vines in the early-1900s before his father, Robert, acquired more in the 1950s.
Soil: Clay-limestone soils that are notably more red in appearance than its neighbors, signifying a greater presence of clay and a higher content of iron which lends more structure.
Elevation: 240 meters
Exposure: Southeast
Vinification: Grapes are mostly de-stemmed and fermented in cement tank with native yeast. Following fermentation, the wine is transferred to barrel for malolactic fermentation and aging.
Maturation: About 10 months in oak pièces (10-25% new barrels)
Marketing Materials:
Domaine Robert Ampeau Et Fils
Domaine Robert Ampeau Et Fils, Rue du Cromin, Meursault, France
Meursault-Perrières 1er Cru
XQ63+M3 Meursault, France
•Chardonnay
Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru
XQ63+4H Meursault, France
•Chardonnay
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes
XQ42+G4 Puligny-Montrachet, France
•Chardonnay
Meursault 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Le Bois
XP6V+V6 Meursault, France
•Chardonnay
Volnay-Santenots 1er Cru
XQQH+PC Meursault, France
•Pinot Noir
Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Ecusseaux
1 Le Moulin aux Moines, 21190 Auxey-Duresses, France
•Pinot Noir
Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières
3RC7+M2 Savigny-lès-Beaune, France
•Pinot Noir